Far to the north, nestled between the boarding countries of Myanmar (Burma) and Laos, lies the Thailand province of Chiang Mai. Originally the capital of Thailand, Chiang Mai is now the second largest city next to Bangkok. However, the topography here is nothing like its sister city to the south. Looking out of your window as you fly in to Chiang Mai international, you can see a vast expanse of rolling hills, dense forests, and farmland. There mere fact that you can see the ground from the air is a huge difference from the methane-chocked air that surrounds Bangkok.
We landed early in the morning and proceeded directly to our guesthouse where we met our guild and headed out on our three-day jungle trek. Two hours in the back of a pickup landed us in the outskirts of the Chiang Dao province and in tribal country. Life out here is very different from that of the city. Set far back in mountain country, this province is comprised mostly of small groups of villages where local tribes depend on farming for trade and sustenance. They live in simple bamboo huts and have no electricity or running water. If it weren't for the occasional motorbike and jeep tracks you might think you where back in the 17th century.
We set out on foot into the dense jungle ahead. After several hours of traversing muddy mountain passes and descending into thick river valleys, we found ourselves at our first camp. A small village set beside a mountain stream about 4km from the nearest road. Jay, our young and energetic guild, is a member of the tribe in this area, he has put us up at his parents house, which they have converted into a traveler accommodation complete with a bunk house with mats, throw pillows and mosquito nets, a dining area, and a camp fire. Jay went straight to work preparing a three-course meal for us. It was amazing; I however, was unable to enjoy it very much because I had contracted food poisoning earlier that day (don't eat too much from street vendors). But after 15 hours of sleep I felt much better and well rested for the next day's adventure: Elephants.
After a "technical" morning trek and eating a traditional Thai lunch out of a banana leaf bowl, we met up with our transport, three Asian Elephants. We had seen a bunch of them on the trail, but now, being up next to one, you begin to understand the incredible strength of these animals. The "handlers," a couple of teenagers more interested in starting fires with the local tree sap then taking care of us, had the elephants get on their knees as we climbed up onto a outboard seat strapped to the their back. Brian and I got on one and it immediately got up and starting heading up a hill. Needless-to-say we were a little unsettled, and decidedly more so when the hill turned into a cliff. The elephant, with the handler sitting on her head slowly, but methodically, ascended the cliff with little hesitation while Brian and I held on the chair, and each other, for dear life. These animals were amazing. They would be walking along and see a tree blocking their path and, instead of taking a side step in either direction to avoid the obstruction, they would simply reach down with their trucks and destroy the fallen tree and walk over the sticks it left behind. And, while amazed, I couldn't help but feel bad for these animals. They are beaten, tided up, and mistreated their entire lives so that foreigners like us can take an hour-long ride on their backs.
The next day we hiked to a rafting camp where we boarded traditional bamboo rafts consisting of nothing more than large bamboo shoots and dried banana leafs as rope. We floated down the slow moving river/waste runoff cesspool. There were no rapids and the only action came when Gary attacked the other boat and fell in the water, which he proceeded to swim in for the rest of the float. Even without white water we still managed to destroy both our boats in water wars before we pulled up at the other camp. We sat out on a terrace enjoying an ice-cold beer while Gary washed the parasites from his body before heading back to Chiang Mai. Our plane for the Gulf leaves the following morning and we have to make it to the night markets before we hit the hay.
It was short but very sweet and I would recommend that anyone traveling in South East Asia make a trip up to this area. And be sure to give yourself a couple extra days, because I know I missed out on a lot of other stuff that Chiang Mai has to offer. But I'm not worried, I'll be back. Sooner or later.
TTFN
Scott
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