Isla Mujeres - Mexico

Flowing with the Tradwinds

A mere stone's throw from the glitz and glamour of Cancun and yet a world away, Isla Mujeres is the alternative to the all-inclusive claustrophobia that chokes the mainland. This narrow, 11km long limestone shelf that rises gently out of the sea, only a couple meters above the water at its highest point, is accessible only by ferry and, to give you an idea of what life is like on the island, the main modes of transportation are scooters and golf carts.

Once billed as the backpacker's alternative to the ritzy Hotel Zone in Cancun, Isla is slowly, but steadily, emerging as another world destination in the Yucatan and it's easy to see why. With its piercing aqua-blue surf gently lapping against soft white sand beaches, people here usually spend the daylight hours dozing in shaded beach chairs and eating fresh caught ceviche in shore front bars. Come nightfall, you'll find everyone strolling down Pramanada Hildago, a pedestrian walkway in the heart of town, lined with French and Italian restaurants, souvenir and cigar shoppes and a healthy supply of watering holes. It's got a little something for everyone.

This little island paradise would play the backdrop for my family reunion with my father and sister, who flew down here for their spring break vacation. After 6 and a half months on the road it was great to see the family again. We would spend the week doing little more than the afore mentioned activities which was a welcome pause for both my father, hobbled from a recently torn meniscus, and my sister, just having finished a hellish week of finals at University. To be honest, I was ready for a break myself and that was exactly what I got.

No more dorm rooms and communal bathrooms, I got to stay in a hotel where the sheets where included with bed! No more scavenging for food, surviving on tuna fish and Snickers, I got to eat real three-course meals. No more watered down beer or generic brad alcohol simpled labeled, 'hard liquor' , we drank imported wines and 100% agave Tequila. Oh, the luxuries of the vacationing class.

On rare occasion we did furllow from our sun baking to do some sight seeing and exploring. We rented a car and took a day trip to Tulum, the Mayan ruin, 3/4 of the way down the Mayan Riviera coastline that is situated on a bluff overlooking a Caribbean sea and the cover photo for most history books about the Mayans. You can literally be standing on a powder white sand beach, toes submerged in warm tropical waters, and be in the ruins at the same time. The Mayans sure knew where to pitch a tent!

On another 'break day' we ventured south along the island to Garrafon, an all-inclusive beach club with manicured gardens, shaded hammock groves and small cabiñas overlooking a coral cove. We had read in our guidebooks that you could choose this all-inclusive option, including all you can eat buffets and an open bar, or simply take a basic package including snorkel gear and use of the facilities. Not wanting to be typical overindulging Americans we decided on the second option but when we arrived however, the front desk receptionist informed us that they were no longer offering the basic option and that we would have to take the full package ($50 each). I guess, they figured this would maximize their profits for each ticket sold. They made a mistake.

Having been duped, we were now motivated to get more than our money's worth and the Schambelans went to work. My dad immediately hit up the bar, ordering two bloody marys. I threw my towel on a chair and ran to the buffet. Having been to Vegas more than a few times, I have mastered the art of buffet dining-I once lived off of MGM's brunch buffet for three days!

I basically start in reverse, eating deserts and cheeses as my starters, then move onto salads and soups. I usually break there and do some Yoga and stomach stretches to loosen up the midsection and make a extended trip to the men's room. Then I move onto the next phase, meats, fish and veggies, and conclude with expandable starches like rice and potatoes. And of course, I always try and slip one more desert if at all possible. Yeah, they made a mistake.

After the buffet, we waddled out of the restaurant and gave our legs, aching under the new burden of 30 extra pounds, repreive taking up beach chairs in seaside cabiña. There we spent the rest of the day. We went for a family snorkel in the afternoon (only to try and burn off calories for our second feast) and made sure our next double orders of Mexican beers and bloody marys where always on the way.

In the late afternoon, as a warm Caribbean sun was setting somewhere over the mainland, we hit up the bar for last minute intoxicants and had a light smorgasbord at the snack bar before being kicked out at closing time. All in all we probably ate enough food to feed a large Mexican family for a week and drank enough alcohol for a small Irish wedding. Yeah, they made a mistake.

It was great to see my family and spend some quality time with people who know and love you for who you are. And, when it came time for them to leave, departing on the midday ferry to catch a flight back to San Francisco, I was overcome with a sudden and unanticipated feeling of loneliness. I wasn't ready to be alone again.

That, coupled with receiving news that a good friend of mine´s father had passed away that same day, further isolating me from the people I love, put me in a weird place and I wasn't sure if I was ready to go on. I contemplated buying a ticket home. But I have decided to stick it out for a little while longer. I think that is just a testament to how much these people mean to me and it's good to know that they will be there when I eventually do make it back to the golden state.